Wednesday, August 30, 2017

AUG. 10-AUG. 18: ON THE KENAI WITH SANDI KOCH, THEN BACK TO ANCHORAGE


Day 73, Aug. 10:  I drove into Anchorage today to pick up my mail from Betty Springen.  I was very pleasantly surprised to see Tim Harris and Bob Novotney whilel I was at Betty’s.  Then I was off to the Anchorage airport to pick up long-time friend (just figured out it is 45 years!) Sandi Koch, who flew in from Seattle to stay a few days.  The weather was good enough that she could see some of the mountains as we drove back to Seward.  By the way, the timberline in this area (north of Seward) is just over 1,000 feet (305 meters) above sea level, so a lot of tundra appears above them to the top of the mountains.  (In some areas the timberline is just a few hundred feet above the ground level (and not far above sea level), so it can vary quite a bit depending on where you are in Alaska, or even in a very localized area.)
Resurrection Bay at Seward out the front window

From Day 74 (Aug. 11) through Day 79 (Aug. 16), Sandi has allowed me to include some of her photos of our week together.  Thank you, Sandi!  It is always fun to see areas through other’s eyes!

 Wildlife count:  2 Dall sheep, 1 bald eagle, 2 swans

Day 74, Aug. 11:  Sandi and I did some shopping in the historic part of Seward before going out to Exit Glacier which is a short distance north of town.  The distance the glacier has receded since I was there in 2007 is astounding!  In 2007 I was able to get very close to the “toe” of the glacier but now it has gone back up the canyon so far, you can’t get very close.  I looked at my 2007 photos tonight and the change is really significant.  (It reminds of when I first saw the bottom of Portage Glacier southeast of Anchorage in 1988 which was easily observable from the road.  Now you have to ride a boat across a lake and around a bend to get a good look at it.)  As I said in 2007 when towns in northwest AK were concerned with rising sea levels impacting them up there, all you need to do is come to Alaska and observe the changes here to believe the climate is indeed changing.  It is “real world stuff” up here and definitely not a pipe dream.


Exit Glacier
 

Draw an imaginary line to the left side of the canyon  from the 2005 sign to get an idea of how the glacier has receded (Can't get a better picture from the vantage point)

Look at the vertical red lines I have drawn in that show where the glacier was in 2007 and where it is now in 2017
From the glacier we drove to the Alaska SeaLife Center which is an amazing aquarium.  The highlight for me is to watch the fish, seals, sea lions, and birds swimming and diving in the three large tanks.  The center also does important marine-life research here in addition to rehabilitating wildlife.  The exhibits are exceptional and are geared to all ages.  It is definitely a “do not miss” attraction in Seward.

Tufted puffin


Sea Lions

Horned puffins
 
Sandi was responsible for me getting into geocaching, so we needed to find one for her here in Alaska.  A cache was located near the SeaLife Center, so we headed for it.  A couple from The Netherlands had just begun looking for it as we drove up, so the four of us searched.  We were successful and, now, Sandi has logged a cache in Alaska.  Geocaching is enjoyed around the world, so it isn’t unusual to run into fellow cachers from other countries.  By this time we were both getting hungry so Ray’s was again the venue of choice for a good dinner.
 

                                            View of Seward Harbor from Ray's
Wildlife count:  Numerous bald eagles flying along the shoreline in front of the park this evening, 1 northern red-backed vole



Day 75, Aug. 12:  I went on a cruise tour of Kenai Fjords National Park with Sandi Koch today and the weather was perfect for us.  It was an 8-hour tour to the foot of one glacier and past others. 
We are parked at the bottom of the turquoise line
Seward's Waterfront campground


The Aialik Glacier is a mile (1609 meters) wide at the toe and we watched it calve several times from about ¼ mile away.  The sky was overcast which caused the blue colors to really show through—really a pretty sight.  In addition to the stunningly rugged countryside, we saw many birds and animals including puffins, cormorants, common murres (they look like small penquins), black oystercatchers, lots of seagulls, and bald eagles.  Animals included steller sea lions, harbor seals, Dall’s porpoises, sea otters, a couple of black bears, and some humpback whales.  From a wildlife viewing perspective, it was a good trip.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to capture good pictures of much of the wildlife because I couldn’t get into the right positions on the boat.  Oh, well…
 
Awesome scenery in Kenai Fjords National Park
 
Still more awesome scenery

 
 And yet more awesome scenery
And it hasn't ended yet!

Bear Glacier

Aialik Glacier

Aialik Glacier

Smile!

Common Murres

Tufted Puffin
 
Harbor Seals

Sea Lions
We sat with two couples and one couple’s 20 month old daughter from India who currently live in the Dallas area and are in the U.S. on temporary visas.  They flew up to Anchorage last night, drove to Seward (120 miles) to catch the tour, then were driving back to Anchorage after the tour—departing Anchorage at 1 a.m. for Dallas in order to be at work on Monday!  They went to Hawaii last month on a similar 3-day weekend jaunt!  Needless to say, we enjoyed talking with them.

The main part of the trip ended with a meal on Fox Island complete with salmon and prime rib.  Then it was a quick trip back to Seward and the dock.  The crew was good as was the ship—the captain/guide was a woman who has been on the water for 18 years.

Sandi gave the trip a "Thumbs Up"!
It’s early to bed for us tonight—we are both bushed from the fresh air and the wind blowing as we watched things passing by from outside the cabin.  Plus, not to mention taking everything in that we were seeing and listening to from the captain.  But, as the saying goes, it is a “good” tired!

Day 76, Aug. 13:  Homer here we come!  Yes, it was moving day today.  We started out in rain but lucked out and broke into partly cloudy to clear skies the further we drove.  It was a good drive and we took our time—even found a couple of geocaches along the way. 
Northern end of the Kenai Peninsula

A "stretch break"--going after a geocache
Mt. Iliama in background
We also enjoyed time in a lush area of fireweed which grows very tall on the Kenai Peninsula.  It was over 5 feet/1.5 meters tall where we found the first geocache of the day. 

 
 

Admiring the tall fireweed
It grows taller here than anywhere else I have seen it!

Fireweed


First view of Homer Spit



Kachemak Bay
Down the hill into Homer
Fortunately, we were able to get a parking spot at the Homer Spit Campground with a beautiful view out the front window.  This campground is on the end of Homer Spit and is a popular spot—a rather spartan campground with great views.  We took a walk on the beach after dinner and enjoyed watching all the boats going to and fro.
 
Alaska Marine Highway ferry coming into Homer


Sunset is approaching in Homer
Day 77, Aug. 14:  We took a drive to Ninilchik this morning so that Sandi could see the Russian Orthodox Church and surrounding cemetery.  Unfortunately, the church was closed; however, it was a clear day and the views across Cook Inlet were wonderful.  We drove through the old village which was settled in the early 1800s by retired Russian-America Company workers who took Native wives.  Since the salmon weren’t running, there weren’t many eagles to be found, but we saw a couple. 


Russian Orthodox Church--Ninilchik

Ninilchik "Old Village"
From Ninilchik we headed down to Anchor Point where Sandi could see the end of the road system on the North American continent.  We found a geocache there and watched as the tractors hauled in the fishing boats on trailers that were backed into the water.  That is really an interesting operation to watch—and it really runs like clockwork. 

Sandi at Anchor Point

                               View of Cook Inlet from Anchor Point

Boat retrieval--Mt. Iliama across Cook Inlet

Boat retrieval at Anchor Point
We drove on to the campground and then took a walk to the famous Salty Dog Saloon here on the Spit.  When I was here in 2007 about the only thing you could do was walk through the place shoulder to shoulder with the rest of the crowd.  I never did get to sit down for a drink there!  We fixed that today as we enjoyed a drink while watching the “mostly-locals” come and go. 


The Salty Dog Saloon, Homer
After some shopping and watching halibut being cut up, we returned to the coach and fixed dinner which included some of the salmon I caught with Gil Glover a couple of weeks ago.  I grilled it—and we both agreed it was really good!  The evening was capped off by sitting on the beach for awhile watching boats on the water and sea otters swimming by.  One observation:  When I was here a decade ago bald eagles were seen nearly continuously.  This was partly because an elderly woman fed them year around from her home here in the campground.  She has since passed away and, although bald eagles are still seen, they are not nearly as plentiful as when I was here in 2007.  Although her home in the campground and all the flowers around it that I remember are gone, there is a plaque here which keeps her memory alive.  Blog readers may have seen programs about her on TV in past years.
 




Day 78, Aug. 15:  Sandi and I found a few geocaches in the area and we drove up into the hills above Homer in search of the elusive moose that she wanted to see.  No moose were out there to be seen today.
Checking out Homer Harbor while geocaching in the area

When you say "cache" in Alaska, this is what they think you mean

We didn't find any moose, but we had nice views of the spit and the bay

 We stopped by the Homer Elks Lodge for an adult drink while admiring their wonderful view of Kachemak Bay that I had been hearing about since I was at the Lodge in Fairbanks.  The day was topped off by wonderful halibut dinners at the Lands End restaurant located at the very end of Homer Spit.  All too soon our visit to Homer, one of my favorite spots in Alaska, is coming to an end.

Day 79, Aug. 16:  We drove from Homer to Anchorage today—228 mi./367 km.  Skies were overcast and we drove through occasional rain showers.  We saw a moose north of Homer off in the distance, so Sandi got to see a moose in AK!  Unfortunately, we were not able to spot any Dall sheep along Turnagain Arm for her to see.

Some folks have wondered how I have been getting pictures “on the run” while traveling the road ways on this trip.  Sandi was wondering the same thing.  I showed her the harness I had rigged up and how I can use it with one of my cameras while still keeping my eyes on the road.  I miss a lot of shots using this method because of 1. Spotting a likely subject too late to get a picture, 2. Traffic either coming from in front of or behind me that is too close to take a picture safely, or 3. The road is in such a condition that I can’t take both hands off the steering wheel.  I try to not have anyone within a mile behind me and about the same distance coming from the other direction in front of me.  I drive slow enough (50-55 mph, depending on the road and the speed limit) that most people want to get around me ASAP.  And, I pull over very frequently to let them do just that!  I used this method first on the 2007 trip to Alaska and was able to perfect it quite a bit for this trip.  The roads through Canada and Alaska have very little traffic which makes this type of operation much easier.  It is definitely not something I would want to try very many places in the Lower 48!  So, there you have it—the story behind my grab-on-the-go wildlife and scenery shots.  They aren’t necessarily pretty as far as the photographic aspects go, but I hope they have given readers a sense of the awesome wildlife and country side I seen along the way on this amazing trip!

Getting another picture on the run
 
Sandi getting a picture of my setup
Wildlife Count:  1 moose, 1 bald eagle

 Day 80, Aug. 17:  I drove around some likely places to spot a moose in the Anchorage area; however, we did not have any luck for Sandi to see another one before she departed for Seattle in the early afternoon.  We always have a good time when we get together and It has been a fun week showing her around the Kenai Peninsula.  I spent the rest of the day getting ready to begin the trip to the Lower 48.  Cool and wet again today.  This really is NOT my kind of weather!

Day 81, Aug. 18:  This was a day for doing laundry, grocery shopping, and getting the coach ready to head out of Alaska.  It was also another wet and cool day.  This evening I had a nice dinner at an Italian restaurant with Betty Springen and her mother, Betty Novotney.  It was good to see them again before I leave the state and I look forward to seeing them this winter in Arizona.  Thank you so much Betty N!

Dinner with Betty Novotney and Betty Springen
 











Tuesday, August 22, 2017

AUGUST 1 to AUGUST 9: RAMBLING AROUND THE KENAI PENINSULA


Day 64, Aug. 1 and Day 65, Aug. 2:  I spent much of these days working around the coach and at a public library working on blog entries and catching up on emails.  The evening of Aug. 2 Gil and I went to check out a couple of fishing areas on the Kenai.  People were catching fish on the river below where he lives.

 
 
The Kenai River gives up another sockeye salmon for the larder!
Day 66, Aug. 3:  Gil Glover and I went fishing on the famous Kenai River today in his powered fishing boat, putting in and taking out at Skilak Lake.  The day was cloudy and cool (some would say on the cold side of cool) with a breeze.  The rain coat I brought for the day was put to good use as a windbreaker.
On the Kenai River

Gil Glover
We fished from the boat, stopping occasionally to fish from shore along sandbars, etc.  I caught and released a pink salmon (aka Humpy), because there is not a season for them this year.
Had to let this Humpy go
Later, I hooked a sockeye (aka Red) that got away, but managed to land the second red I hooked.  Gil also landed a sockeye, so our total for the day was two. 
 
2 reds--our catch for the day
The fishing was definitely slow and the numbers coming through the counting stations were way down.  The sockeye run was really coming to an end; now everyone will get ready for the silver salmon runs which will start in mid-August.  Sure would like to stick around for some more fishing, but it isn’t in the cards for this year.  The wind had come up on Skilak Lake this afternoon, so the ride from the river back across the lake was interesting.  That boat really handled the waves well—as did Gil!  All in all, a fun day on the river!

Wildlife count:  3 bald eagles

 Day 67, Aug. 4:  Gil Glover took me in his drift boat down the Kenai River from Coopers Landing to Skilak Lake.  He said we probably wouldn’t do well fishing but we would see beautiful scenery—and he was right on both counts. 

Drifting down the Kenai River
Oh, what beautiful scenery!
Soon after getting on the river, we heard a loon.  It has been a long time since I have heard their mournful (to me anyway) cry!  We were on the river about 5 ½ or so hours and did not catch any fish.  In fact, small trout would just come up to the “indicator” (we called them bobbers when I grew up in SD), flip at it, and swim away.  We saw salmon in the river but they definitely weren’t interested in hitting our lines.  I believe we only saw two netted all day along our route.  As with yesterday, we fished from the boat and from the shore. 
Time to try our hand at fishing from land
The day was sunny and warm—a grand day for just floating down the river and looking at the awesome scenery as we went by.  We saw a couple of bald eagles and a young grizzly bear that came to the bank after we passed by.  Some people were fishing upstream of it and no one indicated they had seen it.  After a very brief stop at the shore, the bear walked back into the woods.  Numerous Merganser duck families were spotted as we floated by.  Some young ones were obviously barely learning how to navigate on the water while others had become quite comfortable in that environment.  Some were simply sunning themselves on rocks or logs.  I am not sure how many we saw but easily a couple dozen along the way.
Captain Gil
After drifting for 12 river miles/19 km, it was time to take out.  Because of all the drift boats trying to take out at the same time at the same place, it got a little dicey.  But that is another story for another time.  For now, I will say it was part of the adventure and leave it at that.  <G>  No fish to clean tonight.  L

Wildlife count:  2 bald eagles, 1 grizzly bear, a lot of merganser ducks

Day 68, Aug. 5:  I said my good-byes to Gil Glover, his son Allen and wife Colleen, before hooking up to depart for the City of Kenai.  It was a short 28-mile/45 km drive to the Elks Lodge in Kenai.  I am parked next to retirees from California who are also geocachers and we “discovered” each other’s travel bugs on our vehicles.
Yes, there is a travel bug there--but my fellow geocachers should not log it

Weather was beautiful with clear skies and warm temperatures.  Love it!  The days are definitely getting shorter.  We are losing a little more than 5 minutes per day now which means the days will be about an hour shorter just 12 days from now at this location.  Sunset is still after 10:30 p.m.

Day 69, Aug. 6:  I drove to Homer to see the Hosts (David and Donna Rumrill) and Tailenders (Shirlene and Pete) for Winnebago’s 2nd caravan to Alaska this year.  I enjoyed lunch with them and a short visit before driving back to Kenai via Anchor Point where I found a geocache near the western end of the road system in North America.  I went to this place 10 years ago and has it ever changed!  All built up with a state park, etc.  And they charge a fee if you stay over 30 minutes!  A boat launch and takeout business using tractors is also here.  I took a few pictures and headed on up the road to Kenai.  It was a beautiful day to be out on the west side of the Kenai Peninsula!
The western end of the road system in North America
At the end of the road!
Cook Inlet with Mt. Illiama in the distance
Mt. Redoubt across Cook Inlet
Day 70, Aug. 7:  After doing some errands around the coach, I took a drive to Captain Cook State Recreation Area which is at the end of the road on northwest side of the Kenai Peninsula.  It was a pretty drive although trees blocked the views of Cook Inlet for the most part. 
Black spruce trees in a boggy area
They could be hundreds of years old, although they certainly don't look it!
 
The campground at the park is pretty primitive with a lot of tall vegetation all around the campsites.  It is definitely not a campground I would choose to stay at.  The area is known for agates that are found on the beach and I saw some people out looking for them.  I stopped and found a geocache in the area that had been placed by members of a 4-H club as part of their project to learn about the hobby.  What a wonderful age to introduce them to the avocation!  It is one they can use the rest of their lives.  I belonged to 4-H as a child and it is an organization that I firmly believe can really benefit all children in one way or another.  Continuing back to my camp, I stopped at Nikiski to look at an oil drilling platform undergoing maintenance at the dock area. 

Several boats were in Nikiski Bay, most of which appeared to be support vessels related to the oil and gas drilling that is done in this part of Cook Inlet.  I saw about every company that I have heard of in the oil and gas exploration business represented around the little town of Nikiski.

After doing some shopping, I began some serious cleaning of the coach’s interior.  Just because I am traveling doesn’t mean the “housework” ends!  Ha!  It is raining tonight as I write this—the first of a few days of predicted rain.

Wildlife count:  3 bald eagles

Day 71, Aug. 8:  I did laundry this morning ($2.50/load to wash, $.25/each 7 minutes to dry) after which I treated myself to a fine seafood lunch at a local establishment.  The grilled halibut was topped with king crab, asparagus, and hollandaise sauce—and it was really good.

The place was called Louie’s and I had noticed a lot of local traffic into it while I have been here, so figured I would give it a try.  The restaurant is decorated with trophy fish and animals as well as other animals representative of Alaska.  It is really an interesting place and I would recommend it to anyone traveling this way.  Most of the rest of the day was spent finishing dealing with the laundry and preparing for tomorrow’s travel day.  I have enjoyed my stay in this part of Kenai Peninsula and look forward to returning while on a future trip—whenever that might be.

Day 72, Aug. 9:  It was raining when I got up this morning and it didn’t let up until I was about halfway between the city of Kenai and Seward—a 104 mile/167 km drive.  The trip was routine and I enjoyed seeing the countryside as I broke out of the rain.  Fortunately, the showers did not begin again until I was parked and hooked up at the Seward Waterfront Park.  I have a nice view out the front window (when the clouds part enough so I can see) of the mountains on the east side of Resurrection Bay.  I had a late lunch/early dinner at my favorite place in Seward which is Ray’s.  The food there is still good!  I then took a drive out to Lowell Point which is the end of the road south of town.  I was thinking as I was driving out there that I have gotten to the ends of a lot of roads on this trip including here at Seward, at Haines, at Homer, northeast of Kenai, Barrow and, of course. Anchor Point, which is the western-most terminous of the North American road system.  I may have missed one but, if so, I can’t think of what it would be now.

Salmon were really jumping in the water while I was driving along Resurrection Bay.  I could see 6 to 8 of them at any given time as I look out across the water.  Oh, how I would have liked to have seen that many while fishing on the Kenai last week!

Seward is a small town of about 2800 people situated on the north end of ice-free Resurrection Bay.  It is the only large settlement on the east side of the Kenai Peninsula.  Fishing is an important industry here—a 2011 National Marine Fisheries Service report said Seward is the ninth most lucrative fisheries port in the U.S. based on the monetary value of fish taken from the port.  Tourism is also an important industry and several cruise ships come through on a weekly basis during the summer.  The town is a terminous for the Alaska Railroad which maintains a dock for the cruise ships in addition to controlling a shipping terminal for coal that comes from the Interior.  A small military installation is based here and the USCG has a small ship based out of Seward.  I can’t find the figures as I write this, but Seward’s maritime climate is, as you could predict, wet.  They get a lot of snow each winter and the annual moisture received is considerable.  The forested areas have a definite rain forest feel to them and you see plants such as ferns growing along the trails and roads.

I won’t be writing road updates from here on because the Winnebago caravans have all moved on ahead of me.  If solo travelers reading this blog want additional information on road conditions, please send me an email.  However, I will mention that work recently began on a 22 mile stretch of the Sterling Highway west of Cooper Landing that will continue for three years.  Another lane will be added to this heavily-travelled stretch.